Monday, December 1, 2008

Victor Manuel Zwetzig, 1922-2008

My grandfather on my mother's side passed away from cancer, last month. I will always fondly remember working with him in his garage / workshop, creating wooden swords or other random childhood paraphernalia, and taking rides with him and grandma in the '60s classic Ford Falcon he restored to mint condition. I can barely conceptualize the history my grandfather experienced these past 86 years, the last two decades of which have seen such monumental leaps in culture and technology for our society... he raised many wonderful children and grandchildren throughout his life, and though I am sad he is no longer with us, I am proud and happy that he is assuredly in a better place with many achievements to his credit.

Grandpa Zwetzig, we will all miss you...

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Tripping The County Fair


Hello There, Human!
Originally uploaded by venthara
(Paola, KS)

Last night I joined the Schermans and the Ayalneh-Wissingers at the Miami County Fair, where I met this curious little fellow. I can only imagine he was standing around wondering what all those big apes roaming around this humongous cage he was peering into really thought they were doing with their time ;-)

I had heard much ado about the treat known as the Walking Taco, served at this fair, and found that it was indeed worthy of culinary praise. We also saw a parade of antique cars and tractors, that featured Shriners in their toy cars as well... and borderline dangerous candy-throwing into the watching crowd!

They had rabbits too. Watership Down!

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Back In The City

Hearing the neighbor's music pounding in the apartment below me, the hubbub of car horns and engine revving, the chatter of children out in the apartment lawn, ... I much prefer the open skies and solitude of the places I returned from. It will take some getting used to, being back in the confines of "civilization."

I might need to travel again in a couple of weeks ;-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Wrap-Up

Back home and settled in once again, I've uploaded all the photos from the trip to my Flickr account, and cleaned up and back-filled all the posts in this trip series.


Also, here is the 360 degree panoramic video I made of the Painted Desert, from Pintado Point.



... and a pan of Cadillac Ranch.


The Last Hundered Miles

Floating in a void of fearless fatigue, hurling headlong into the infinite blackness beyond. Body still, gaze locked, fingers adjusting infinitesimally the delicate balance between speed and direction. Meaningless music merges with mind-numbing monotony. Signs and stripes blur into glowing apparitions, melted by the miles burning away beneath me.

Mist-cloaked midnight browns to bluish-orange. Suddenly, a sea of scintillating lights splits apart the inky veil...

A city!

The city.

My city.

Home.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

On the Kansas Turnpike, the last stretch home... and finally, a dry highway! Oklahoma was flood conditions all the way out...
Making it out of here barely in time too, there's a huge storm brewing...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Eskimo Joe's

(501 W Elm Ave, Stillwater, OK)

"Eat at Joe's," they say. So I did, just not the Crab Shack. A dinner at Eskimo Joe's, of the Three Amigos, is the very last of items to cross off my wish list for this trip.

Time to go home :-)
Stillwater is anything but...
.. and now the sky is trying to drown us.
A thunderstorm, lightning stabbing the earth and wind gusting across the road, marks my departure northward from Oklahoma City.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Oklahoma City National Memorial

Time to be serious, here on the last major point of interest in my journey homeward. It contains special significance for me; although I did not personally know anyone killed in the bombing of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building, on April 19, 1995, I was still living here... and myself and my family were touched by the terrible act.

I remember sitting in class at Carl Albert High School, when we heard and felt a distant thunder in a cloudless sky. Everyone knew somehow that something utterly wrong had just happened, and later when the teachers put the televisions onto the news, several of my classmates had it confirmed with horrific reality as they considered friends and loved ones who had been at or near the site earlier that day. Many of them were let go home, either because of confirmation of their worst fears, or because of sufficient doubt.

My father was later part of the men and women from the nearby Tinker Air Force Base who answered the call to help clean up and recover (as much as any community can) from the disaster. We never got details, as kids, but one can only imagine the horror and sadness of sifting through the rubble...


As I approach the memorial, entranced by a massive black edifice upon which a stirring deeication is etched, I notice upon a nearby street corner a statue of Jesus weeping among charred pillars, his peerless white robes a stark contrast to their black destruction. Hanging on the aluminum fences bracketing the entrance, tokens of love and memory stretch for a city block in either direction.

Within the memorial grounds, a pool of shimmering water barely an inch deep stretches blackly between the two inner monument faces, one labeled "9:01" and the other "9:03." Bronze pediments in the shape of high-back chairs line one of the parallel lawns, each named for a victim of the attack. Across the pool and up a series of grass terraces, an elm tree stands (a survivor of the blast) in the center of a stone courtyard... signifying gratitude to those who came in aid, and faith in the spirit of the city.

Truly evocative.
Yukon, OK: Home of Garth Brooks! (Still not stopping...)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Orange, Orange, Everywhere!

Yay, more construction. Miles and miles of little orange cones, but only about twenty feet of actual road work going on. New Mexico and Oklahoma must be starring in an episode of "Trading Highways" or something.

(Admittedly, that was bad; plus the only reason I watched that show, "Trading Spaces," is because Paige Davis was a hottie... Admit it, you thought so too.)

OK, no more highway confessions! ;-)
Another sign proclaims Weatherford as the home of Astronaut Arnold P. Stafford! Who knew!
Approaching Clinton, OK; there appears to be a rather large amount of black smoke coming from the town. A fire of some sort?

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Elk City

Passing through, but thought I'd make note of it. This is the home of Susan Powell, Miss America 1981, after all!

(What that has to do with anything, I don't know. I just saw it on a sign, and I'm bored.)
Headed back to Amarillo for food and gas, before the long haul to OKC.
.. and the camera battery dies. At least I got some shots of Palo Duro before it gave up on me...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Palo Duro Canyon

Not yet ready to face the 4 hour drive to Oklahoma City, I've taken a slight detour to this state park south of Amarillo. I guess I just haven't gotten enough of canyons yet; let's see how this one compares ;-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Cadillac Ranch, Upon Closer Inspection


Ah, I see. The appeal is in making your mark, in spray paint, upon the upended vehicles. Swarms of children and adults alike do so with wild abandon, adding another layer of technicolor history atop the chrome and rust.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Cadillac Ranch

No trip through Amarillo would be complete without dropping by this "famous" sight... which, for a bunch of automobiles stuck upright in the ground "at the same exact angle as the Cheops Pyramid," is surprisingly popular...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Camping In Amarillo

I bought the tent a month ago, I've been wanting to use it, and I did! It only took me about 20 minutes to pitch in the KOA Kampground, at half past midnight Amarillo time...

Until I got to the rain-fly...

Murphy's Law of tent assembly: the correct orientation for the rain-fly, is always the LAST orientation you try!

Coupled with a fair amount of wind and with only a small LED penlight for guidance, it took me probably another 30 minutes to chase around and get that damn thing on... I crumpled in exhaustion into my sleeping bag roughly 1:30-2AM, the wind that so aggravated me before at least now providing a cool refreshment from the sticky heat.

All that trouble last night, and this morning it looks like the clouds in the sky didn't even have the decency to rain... but I have to say, looking at my handiwork this morning I didn't do too bad for fumbling around half-asleep in the dark.


Now... I get to take it all apart again! ;-)

Friday, July 11, 2008

My MP3 player has a sense of humor. On the loneliest stretch of midnight road in Texas, it queues up "I Think We"re Alone Now"
Let's revise that estimate to between midnight and 1AM... is this entire stretch of interstate under construction?

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Amarillo Here I Come

Stuffed to the gills with spicy chicken and sweet sopapilla, I am off for a marathon drive to Amarillo. Time zones work against me in this direction, so I will likely arrive at the KOA campground I reserved sometime between 11:30 and midnight...

Let's hope the western half of New Mexico proves less frustrating to this road warrior :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Garduno's Mexican Restaurant


(8806 4th Street NW, Albuquerque, NM)

I've stopped here for dinner on the recommendation of a friend, after a somewhat frustrating drive through the western half of New Mexico. The half of the state apparently in monsoon season...

This is the original Garduno's, proclaims the sign, and as we have seen between me and signs... who am I to argue? :-)

Dave recommended the burrito I believe, and I've ordered the pollo asada variety. It doesn't look exactly as he described, but it is quite tasty nonetheless!
Gallup? More like a slow trot... Nothing like rain and road work to put a damper on driving ambitions.
Its raining cats and dogs at the New Mexico border!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Rainbow Forest Museum and Walkway

The last stop in my tour through the park features a mammoth monument to the mysteries of time, affectionately nicknamed "Old Faithful" by the park employees. It is a petrified tree stump and partial trunk, as tall on its side as I am standing upright, and as big around as a tractor wheel!










I wander the trail and the museum, which also features dinosaur skeletons as its centerpiece, before heading over to the curio shop to pick up a hunk of stone of my own :-)










The Petrified Forest truly captivated. I had originally planned to spend only an hour here before heading to Albuquerque and its zoo before it closed. Nope. You can't see this park in an hour, and truly do it justice with your attention. No matter, Albuquerque still holds a restaurant recommendation by my friend David Chesher, which will serve as dinner.

However, at the curio shop here I noticed the cashier wearing a name tag with "Holbrook, AZ" as his place of origin. Thinking back to my decision before, at the town so named, I asked him how far it was from here.

"Oh, about 18 miles."

So there you have it. Those signs at Holbrook knew what they were talking about after all ;-) Had I not been impatient along that lonely stretch of road between there and here, perhaps the park tour would have taken less time from other adventures! Ah-well, live and learn; I don't regret the decision too much, because had I taken that road instead the rain would still be upon us, and now I get to see the sights twice as I return to Route 66.

Lunch is a sandwich and chips snagged from the shop and eaten in the car, before I drive back through the park and on my way to the next destination.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Petrified Forest, Crystal Forest Walkway

Now this is more like it... walking out into the midst of a Triassic landscape and getting up close and personal with the fossilized logs. It truly is deserted out here, aside from the cawing of ravens as they hunt for scraps among a forest floor long dead and gone, save for the petrified pieces we come to gaze in wonder upon.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Perified Forest, Jasper Forest Overlook










After driving through the Painted Desert and stopping by sights such as the petroglyphs of Newspaper Rock and the roadside Tepees (large eroded rock mounds), this marks my first sighting of petrified wood au naturale. Fields of jasper logs litter the view before me, as I stop to take pictures from the overlook.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Petrified Forest, Pintado Point

The ranger said you can see the Painted Desert in 360 degrees from this point, and visibility stretches for hundreds of miles on a clear day. She wasn't kidding! Even though its overcast today, I can still make out San Francisco Peak in the distance, which the sign marks as 120 miles away :-)


I make a 360 degree movie before heading further into the park.



Grand Canyon Solo Tour: (Still) At Petrified Forest Entrance

It is taking 15 minutes just to get into the park, because everyone ahead of me has to stop and have a conversation with the ranger in the booth... ;-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Petrified Forest National Park


I've stopped at the Painted Desert Visitor Center to see what information I can find to maximize my enjoyment here. The friendly park ranger points out three areas of particular photographic interest: Pintado Point, Blue Mesa, and Crystal Forest. The entire park is about a 28-mile drive southward from here, and Crystal Forest about halfway down that road.


Time to see some sights!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Holbrook, AZ


Don't be fooled by the signs pointing to Petrified Forest Natl. Park here, they take you through this town and then to the south side of the park on a much slower local highway. I didn't make it that far before realizing my error and getting back on course along Route 66. Only 10 minutes off schedule.

Sheesh. Good way to get traffic through town I guess...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: I-40 East in Arizona

Maybe its a trick of the light, but it definitely feels more like driving in a desert on the way back through...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Leaving Flagstaff

Days Inn may not be the first choice of lodging for traveling connoisseurs, but I'll give them one thing: they have really soft pillows :-)

Next stop: the Petrified Forest!

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Flagstaff, AZ

After finding my hotel, located in a very convenient spot near I-40 with plenty of dining and fuel options, I decide to head to the nearby Sizzler for dinner. All the sun today has given me a bit of a headache, so I plan on turning in early to get plenty of rest (aided by Tylenol) and an early start tomorrow.

Petrified Forest National Park awaits, as my first tourist stop on the return trip!

More in the morning :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Back In Williams

As we disembark the train, a Civil War Confederate brass band heralds our arrival. Its their last set of the day, and they finish with a rendition of "Dixie."


Luggage claimed, and car reloaded, I'm off for Flagstaff where dinner and a Days Inn await. Tomorrow begins my return drive, which I will take more leisurely and with some tourism planned along Route 66 and in its cities, but I aim to be back home before Sunday.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Train Robbery!

I was beginning to think the return ride would be much like yesterday's, but suddenly out the left window we spotted bandits on horses! The train slowed to a stop (rather accommodating of the engineer...) and we were boarded by two dirty varmints! Guns drawn, they threatened us passengers until we gave up folding money or pocket change, making their way smugly down the length of the train.


Just a bit too late the marshal made an appearance, asking if we'd been robbed. A chorus echoed, "YES!"

"I have good news," he proclaimed, "... I just saved a ton of money on my car insurance." Then he sauntered off after the bandits.

Gee, thanks, that's helpful.

(This was, of course, a mock train robbery... although we were warned whatever we handed over wouldn't be returned. Good thing I'm not fond of pocket change!)

Later, our train attendant Morgan entertained us with her life story. She started out as a blackjack dealer in Vegas, then one day realized she wasn't living how she wanted to, took off her apron, threw it on a roulette wheel, and walked out. When she got home and told her husband, he just shrugged and said, "Let's move to Arizona." They now live on 5 acres that cost $1000 in a log home they built themselves, right down to the electrical wiring.

Some people dream of living; others live their dream. Which are you?

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Back On The Train


After perusing the shops and getting in a few more photos of the canyon (never can get enough), I've boarded my train car back to Williams, and my car.

When I got to my seat, it was occupied by a pair of young girls. Thinking I wasn't in the right car yet, since we had to board on the car meeting the very edge of the platform, but the nice lady attendant at the next car assured me I was not suffering from altitude dementia. We walked back to figure out what was going on, and since it seemed a family wasn't ticketed together but still wanted to sit together, she decided I would sit at a nice window seat in her train car instead! Again, good fortune in seating :-)

I am quit reluctant to leave this natural wonder, but with 200 miles of canyon to explore, I've barely scratched the surface of its beauty. I WILL be back!


Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Lunch and Photo Dump

(Maswik Lodge Cafeteria)

I've spent most of the morning online in the only place at the hotel with free wireless, the lobby and cafeteria, planning stops and booking rooms for my touring trip back home. I've also uploaded nearly all of the photos I've taken so far to my Flickr account, and cleaned up and back-filled older posts in this series. I'll have to upload the remainder of the Grand Canyon National Park photo set when I get to the hotel in Flagstaff tonight, since my train leaves at 2:45 today and I want to get some shopping and additional sight-seeing in before then.


Lunch was a taco salad and chocolate ice cream at the cafeteria. I have to say, everything in my stay here and in Williams so far has been of excellent quality and service. Definitely a recommended vacation choice for any future travelers :-)

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: The Top, At Last!


Quite a hike back up. Its funny how each passing landmark you note on the way down becomes a welcome friend as you reach it in a return visit.

Speaking of friends, I'm wishing mine could be here to experience the majesty of this place with me. True, doing this on my own makes it a journey of self-discovery as much as anything else, but some moments need to be shared.

I hope what I write and capture in the camera's eye serves to impart at least some of the enjoyment, though it is certainly insufficient to be much more.

Now for a dinner I will truly relish! :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Halfway Back Up

I've just passed a pack of potential Darwin Award winners, attempting to climb bare-handed up one of the canyon walls, for a photo opportunity.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Ascending the Trail

Whew, yeah, the ascent will definitely take twice as long as the descent...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: A Mile Down The Canyon

(Bright Angel Trail)

I've come to the first rest area on the trail, which the guidebook notes as being 1.5 miles from the trail head. I think I'll hike another 15 minutes before heading back, though. There is a promontory I want to check out up ahead...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Bright Angel Trail

I have encountered a pair of mountain goats!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Bright Angel Trailhead

I am beginning my descent...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Cultural Observation

Since entering the national park, I have been hearing a lingual polyglot of conversation drifting through the air. There seem to be several international tour groups here today, from the couple hailing from Amsterdam on the train, to the Frenchman standing in line ahead of me. I have recognized German, Swedish, Japanese, and Indian dialects as well.

We might tend to think of the Grand Canyon as an American tourist attraction, and it truly is an icon of North America, but the majesty of this place draws visitors from all over the world :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Grand Canyon Village

After the bus tour, I wandered the village from east to west, taking in more of the canyon vistas and seeing some of the historical buildings and landmarks. First I visited the El Tovar Hotel and Hopi House. The latter is a pueblo structure in which authentic Native American arts and crafts are sold. I'll be sure to pay it a visit before I catch the train tomorrow. Walking westward I passed a few more lodges of less interest, before coming to the historic Bright Angel Lodge, and spent some time in its museum section.


Next along the rim walkway I came to Lookout Studio, which is a structure built right on the canyon edge, offering some pretty dramatic views down and across the canyon. I wandered on to Kolb Studio, which used to be a pioneer photography studio, and has a small art gallery and Civil Engineer Corps museum within. Lastly I visited Bright Angel Trailhead, to get a view of what I face later today.


I don't think I'll be hiking all the way to the bottom, or even Indian Garden which is around 9 miles round-trip ;-) Just a mile or two down, since I rather want to return before midnight!

The hotel should let me check in about half an hour from now, so I can gear up for the hike. I already purchased a hiking staff and have been reading all the hiker recommendations in the guidebook, so also need to bring along trail mix or something else salty and high protein to avoid getting sick.

Don't worry, Mom, I'll be fine :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Yaki Point on the Kaibab Trail


This is our last scenic stop on the bus tour, after a previous brief visit to Duck Rock (which unfortunately lost its beak in the 90's). We are at the farthest vantage point eastward on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and it certainly offers an encompassing view westward of "the big hole in the ground" (as our tour driver Frank calls it).

Frank is from Brooklyn, and has driven tours here for around four years, having done tour jobs for NASA and other national attractions for many years prior. He retired from being a power plant operator in a nearby town, and as he puts hit he and his wife "have been homeless for sixteen years." They travel all over in their solar-powered motorhome, taking tour jobs in the summer and just relaxing the rest of the year. He has accumulated a lot of knowledge about the canyon and life in general, which he shares with us as an even-paced and delightfully humorous patter.


We are headed back to the Village now, perfect timing since I'm starting to get hungry and the depot has our box lunches.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Yavapai Point

This is the first stop the bus has mde, giving many glorious views of the canyon. I get my camera ready for action :-)


Definitely starting to feel the effects of the arid altitude here, already. I've downed the first bottle of what I'm sure will be a lot of water consumed today! I brought along the two wineskins that were a gift from Nathan Scherman during his bachelor party float trip, with the intent to fill and use them on the hike I plan for at least partways down the canon on Bright Angel Trail, but now I'm regretting leaving them in my bag... which won't meet me in my hotel room until I can check in at 4PM. However, at least later in the evening should be cooler and a better time for the hike.

We're on our way to the next stop now.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Disembarking

We've arrived, and I am hustling straight to the bus which leaves in a few minutes for a narrated tour of one of the canyon rim vistas.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: On The Train

Rachel, our car attendant, has a good sense of humor as she points out various interesting sights during our departure. Cute, too ;-)


(I'm behaving, don't worry!)

One of the Wild West bandit gunslingers, Wolf, moves through the cars greeting everyone and getting their points of origin. After he shakes my hand, I surreptitiously check my pockets. Yep, everything's still there!


Later, a cowboy with a guitar and harmonica wanders through to entertain us. I'm not a big fan of country music, but his rendition of "Ring of Fire" was pretty good.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: All Aboard!

After breakfast I head off to the train depot to figure out what's what. I wind up getting shuffled into a souvenir photo shoot, from which online I can view and purchase a picture my smiling mug in front of an old-time railroad engine, with a railway sign displaying my rail car and seat number. Yay ;-)


I walk down the platform to see what else I can find, before boarding, and come across a Wild West shoot-out stage. The actors are hamming it up, but what the hey, its a way to kill some time before the train arrives. (Hate to spoil the "surprise," but the marshal wins.)


A whistle heralds the arrival of the train, so I go and find my seat (15B in car Budd N). When I get there I discover its an aisle seat :-(

Luckily, the car isn't fully booked and no one winds up sitting next to me. Satisfied, I slide over to the window for a better photographic advantage :-)

The train has departed. Next stop: the Grand Canyon National Park!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Breakfast at the Depot

(Max and Thelma's at Grand Canyon Railway, Williams, AZ)

The morning is bright and sunny, but not hot, promising good weather today. Early check-out was mandatory in order to get my luggage on the train, which leaves in 45 minutes. I feel quite refreshed nonetheless, the room was quite comfortable and the shower strong... Not those feeble
droplets at a time you find in some hotels. This place definitely gets my recommendation.

Dinner last night was basically as much of whatever I could pile on my plate (and stuff in my face) as fast as I could. I think lasagna was involved... This morning, however, I have time to be discerning. Breakfast from the buffet is French Toast, jack cheese hash browns, bacon, country gravy biscuits, and orange juice. Quality!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Williams, AZ

I have arrived! The feeling of elation and sense of accomplishment that filled my spirit as I turned into the hotel parking for Grand Canyon Railways simply cannot be described in mere words, but I can say that it made every mile worth the effort. This is the longest road trip I have undertaken in my lifetime, solo or as part of a group... even, I think, among the many trips taken with my family. At least a thousand miles from home... and loving it :-)

First order of business upon my arrival was the dinner buffet, provided as part of the tour package, which ended at 9PM. Thankfully, through a combination of time zone trickery, dedicated driving, and an iron bladder, I arrived at just half past 8PM Arizona time :-) Good thing, because I was starving. The Subway sandwich I had for lunch back near Amarillo, TX, had worn off hours ago... and Little Debbie marshmallow crispies only go so far... 100 calories each, after all!

Second order of business was to let my friends and family know I had arrived safely at my destination... and now, my final order of business after updating the travelogue and taking a nice long hot shower, is to go absolutely brain-dead for as many solid hours as I can... I've been hurling along the face of the Earth at 80MPH for almost 15 straight hours, after all ;-)

Good night! Tomorrow, the Grand Canyon awaits.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Middle of Arizona

Sunsets in Arizona truly are golden...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Arizona At Last!

This state is a lot greener than I thought it would be so far...

Passed a sign for the Petrified Forest National Park; definitely going to have to pay that a visit on my trip back :-)

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Gallup

I initially thought I might gallop on through Gallup, but with Flagstaff still 200 miles away and my gas gauge sitting less than 3/4 full I've decided to stop and refill anyways. The last leg of this trip, through Arizona, is definitely not a place to run out!

(Somewhere out there David Chesher is shaking his head in despair...)

(Its the pun, you see...)

Just as I'm about to get on Interstate 40 again, I hear a sharp *pop* from my right rear tire! Crap. I've pulled into a shopping mall to check for damage, but thankfully nothing appears to be wrong... getting paranoid now that I'm so close I guess...

That's what I get for making puns!

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Continental Divide

I just crossed it.

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: 50 Miles From Gallup

Now these are definitely mesas...

Grand Canyon Solo Tour: Leaving Albuquerque

Mountains and rain turn to desert and dust almost immediately. Neat!